I’ve been fascinated with Mt. Everest ever since I was a child. I remember learning about Sir Edmund Hillary and his quest to conquer Everest in school, and wanting to do the same. While the urge to scale the world’s highest peak faded with age, my desire to walk in Hillary’s footsteps only grew. So when my feather tailed dart landed on Nepal I knew it was time to pay homage to the ‘King of Khumbu’ who inspired my love of adventure and taught me Kiwis can fly. It was time I embarked on my own quest and conquered the Everest Base Camp Trek.
PICTURES ARE WORTH A THOUSAND WORDS…This blog post will be done as a photographic journal because let’s be honest words just don’t do justice to the pure and stunning scenery on the Everest Base Camp trek. Lush green valleys, pine tree forests, incredibly gorgeous animals, ice blue rapids, glacial pools and towering white peaks create a photographic dreamscape which made it virtually impossible to put my camera down. Choosing my favorite photos from the millions I took on my quest was painstakingly hard, so hopefully these will give you a glimpse into the trek and inspire you to explore the heart of the Himalayas.
Lukla – 2,860m
My trek to Everest Base Camp started in Lukla (2,860m) after a 40 minute flight from Kathmandu. If flying in a tiny, roaring aircraft through the Himalayan foothills wasn’t enough of an adrenaline rush, the flight lands at the Tenzing–Hillary Airport – the most dangerous airport in the world. It’s short, it’s steep, and the runway ends with a thousand meter drop into the valley below.
TRAVEL HINT: Schedule in extra days at the end of your Nepal trip as flight delays in and out of Lukla are common.
Phakding – 2,652m
After a nail biting flight, the three hour downhill hike to the quiet riverside village of Phakding (2,652m) was an enchanting introduction to trekking in the Himalayas. During my walk I ran into droves of droopy eared donkeys and dzo (hybrid between a yak and a cow) carrying supplies to the mountain settlements. These quirky but cute looking animals really did take up the path, giving me a welcome lesson in trekking etiquette.
TRAVEL HINT: During your trek give way to donkeys, dzo, yaks, and porters as they are carrying heavy loads and wont think twice about knocking you over.
Namche Bazaar – 3,440m
Namche Bazaar (3,440m) is the last large village full of shops, restaurants and wi-fi cafes and marks the end point of western comforts before heading higher up into the mountains. It is a common place to take an acclimatization day… but before I could rest and enjoy this Himalayan haven I had to pay my dues, which involved swaying on five suspension bridges as donkeys trotted behind me (including the Hillary Bridge), being yelled at by a drunk for taking a photo of his dzo, and a three hour vertical climb. I found this by far the most physically hard and grueling day during the trek but I would walk it a thousand times over for the stunning mountain views Namche offers its guests.
TRAVEL HINT: Everest documentaries are screened after 3 pm at cafes in Namche Bazaar, a good way to get motivated before the really hard trekking begins.
Tengboche – 3,867m
As time passed, the rustic charm of ply wood walled tea houses and minus temperatures at night disappeared along with my apetite and I began to question my sanity in starting my quest. But stunning mountain views that grow more prominent with my every step inspired me to push on-wards.
TRAVEL HINT: Stay positive during the trek, remember you are on holiday. Take time to enjoy the view and laugh with your fellow trekkers it will make you feel better and make the walk less daunting.
Lobuche – 4,940m
As we moved closer to base camp, the temperature began dropping, and the air got thinner, everything became a relentless and monotonous challenge. Turning over in bed left my heart thumping, getting dressed left me gasping, even using the toilet was an exhausting exercise. Gradually I stopped taking showers, or even touching liquid, the icy water and frosty air stung when it poured over my purple skin making me gasp for oxygen that just didn’t exist. I got to a point where I just wanted the struggle to end, my only motivation to continue now was my inability to admit defeat.
TRAVEL HINT: The trek to Everest Base Camp is a snails race, walk slow, if you feel out of breath your walking too fast.
Gorakshep – 5,150m
Reaching Gorakshep at 5,150m felt like an achievement in itself. Despite shaking legs that gave way with every step and a pounding headache from the thin air there was no turning back or giving up now – in three hours I would be at base camp and my quest would be complete.
TRAVEL HINT: Stay hydrated, drink 3 to 4 litres of water a day to prevent headaches caused by dehydration.
Everest Base Camp – 5,364
Reaching Everest Base Camp at 5,364m gave me a euphoric sense of accomplishment. After eight days of early mornings, headaches, blisters,and no showers, I can finally say Ive stood in the footprints of a kiwi hero who accomplished extraordinary things, toe-to-toe with the top of the world. After hugs, handshakes and a few mandatory photos in front of the pile of rocks and prayer flags I found myself standing in awe at the presence before me…. A canvas of towering snow capped mountains, the Khumbu glacier, an occasional avalanche, beautiful tents of different colors, and the magnificent specter of the mountain that made this Kiwi an adventure junkie – Mt. Everest. My quest for Everest wasn’t easy, it was one of the hardest challenges Ive ever faced both mentally and physically but one that upon reaching base camp, became my proudest moment – an accomplishment worth the struggle.
Day 01: Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, then 3 hour trek to Phakding (2,652m).
Day 02: 5 hour trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3,440m).
Day 03: Acclimatization day.
Day 04: 6 hour trek from Namche Bazaar to Tengboche (3,867m).
Day 05: 7 hour trek from Tengboche to Dingboche (4,360m).
Day 06: 3 hour trek from Dingboche to Duglha (4.600m).
Day 07: 4 hour trek from Duglha to Lobuche (4,940m).
Day 08: 5 hour trek from Lobuche to Gorakshep (5,150m) then 3 hour trek to Everest Base Camp (5,364m).
Day 09: 8 hour trek from Gorakshep to Pheriche (4,280m).
Day 10: 7 hour trek from Pheriche to Namche Bazaar (3,440m).
Day 11: 6 hour trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla (2,860m).
Day 12: Flight from Lukla to Kathmandu.
*I booked a 12 day private tour with a guide and porter through a trekking company on my arrival in Kathmandu for $999 USD pp.